Friday, November 09, 2012


To the uncircumcised in Cebuano cuisine:

     SU = sugba or grilled,

     TO = tola/tinola or stewed,

     KIL = kilaw or fresh,

and refers to the 3-way culinary preparation of a fish.

"Subukan naman natin 'yung shuttokil (read: sutokil)," said Ka Maning.

"Sa pertreyd (read: Pier Tres) na tayo sumakay ng ferry para makatipid sa pamasahe," he added. 

"Uray met agtudtudo (read: even if it's raining)," he quipped as I tried shooting Lapu-Lapu City's Shrine of the Virgen de la Regla amid a patient drizzle and dark-as-Lord Voldemort sky.  

"May masasakyan kaya tayong taxi pabalik?" he asked as we reached Pajac only to find the Alegre Guitars too expensive and perhaps overrated.

"Mukhang mahal dito," he observed as the taxi pulled into a place called Rose & Wills BBQ House where we ordered a kilo of tanigue for the sutokil and half of a seashell side dish.

"Holdap!" he explained when he saw the bill which included unannounced cooking and service fees that doubled what I thought we should justly pay.

But the hints of ginger and tanglad in the tola was refreshing, the lingering aftertaste of sliced red bell pepper desirable in the kilaw, and the sugba grilled to an excellent juiciness (although the feeling of having been conned somewhat took something out of that).  

"Pityuran mo naman kami," Ka Maning asked as we killed time ogling the great Lapu-Lapu's monument and contemplating the fallen Magellan's phallic symbol.

"Yosi muna tayo," he enjoined Ka Tolits as I made the best of a misunderstood direction to the taxi driver by asking for Mandaue City's Shrine of St. Joseph the Worker.

Ka Maning's overall rating on our 4th day in Cebu City so far: "Ganito sana palagi!".

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