KINALAS

Naga City is one of the oldest cities in the Philippines in the same league as Cebu, Manila and Vigan. Several fine churches dot its landscape, the most famous of which is of course the Shrine of the Nuestra Senora de Pena de Francia. A walk away is the ruins of the San Francisco Church which is acknowledged to be the oldest church in the Bicol region. It once served as a quarter for Franciscan priests and was the surrender site of the last Spanish governor to serve the province of Ambos Camarines. The church was completely destroyed in 1915 and was not rebuilt until 1957. It has just undergone a major restoration work and only the base of the bell tower remained of the old structure.



Also within walking distance is the Cathedral of San Juan Evangelista whose first structure was built when the Diocese of Nueva Caceres was established in 1595. This was razed by fire in 1768 and probably replaced by a makeshift church. A bigger and stronger structure was built until 1843 under the supervisions of Bishop Bernardo de la Concepcion and Msgr. Tomas Ladron de Guevara. It was repaired from 1862 until 1879 during the term of Fr. Francisco Gainza after it was damaged by a typhoon, and again in 1890 under the supervisions of Bishop Arsenio Campo and an Engineer Ricardo after it was damaged by an earthquake. The cathedral has just undergone a general restoration work. Beside it is the imposing Seminary of Nueva Caceres that was founded in 1797 by Bishop Domingo Collantes. It is the only remaining Spanish era seminary building in the Philippines. Across the street is the Colegio de Santa Isabel that was established by Bishop Francisco Gainza in 1870 as the first normal school for girls in the Philippines.

After this visita iglesia, a refreshing serving of kinalas is a most welcome refreshment. This noodle dish is similar with the everyday mami except for a topping of what looked like a Pansit Palabok sauce, and the meaty dark soup made from boiling a cow or a pig’s head until the flesh fell off. Hence, the name kinalas. Then off to another visita iglesia of quaint small towns along the Metro Naga loop starting with Milaor.

CHURCH OF NUESTRA SENORA DELA ASUNCION (CANAMAN, CAMARINES SUR). The Franciscans established the mission of Canaman in 1599. The church is probably the last of a series of churches built in the town during the Spanish era.



CHURCH OF SANTA ANA (MAGARAO, CAMARINES SUR). Magarao was a visita of Canaman until 1750. The first parish church was destroyed during the earthquake of 1811. A makeshift church was built that lasted until 1826 when the present church was started to be constructed. This was finished in 1849. Repairs were initiated by Fr. Vicente Rojo (OFM) and Fr. Higinio del Alamo (OFM) after the church was damaged during the 1877 earthquake.

CHURCH OF SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA (CAMALIGAN, CAMARINES SUR). The Franciscans established the mission of Camaligan in 1795. The church was probably built in the 19th century.

CHURCH OF NUESTRA SENORA DEL ROSARIO (BOMBON, CAMARINES SUR). The Franciscans established the mission of Bombon in 1804. The church which features a bell tower leaning to one side was probably built afterwards.

CHURCH OF THE LA IMACULADA CONCEPTION (CALABANGA, CAMARINES SUR). The Franciscans established Calabanga in 1578 as a visita of Quipayo until 1749. When it was established as an independent parish, the first church was built and was damaged during the 1811 earthquake. Another church was built in 1849 and was also probably destroyed. The present church was built from 1874 until 1897.

PANCIT LUCBAN

I always take the Luisiana-Cavinti-Lucban way whenever I travel south because the travel time is shorter although the route is longer because of the minimal traffic volume. The refreshing scenery of rolling hills bordering the Laguna Lake and the cool mountain air also makes the travel stress-free and enjoyable. On top of that is a filling snack of Pancit Lucban from a panciteria just beside Lucban’s grand colonial church --- its freshly cooked saucy noodles brimming with an assortment of vegetables and sahog, and spiked with a large head of calamansi.

The town of Lucban after which this great pancit was named was established as a Franciscan mission in 1578. The first church was built in 1595 after it became an independent parish. The town was moved to its present site in 1629 where another church was built from 1630 until 1640 and was damaged by fire in 1733. The construction of the present church dedicated to San Luis Obispo was finished in 1738. Lucban is the hometown of Apolinario dela Cruz --- more popularly known as Hermano Pule --- who is acknowledged to be the first hero of Tayabas and the first King of the Tagalogs.

National Heritage Site: A Basilica with Neo-classical Altars


The Franciscans established Tayabas in 1578 and built the first church of light materials in 1585. It served as the capital town of Tayabas province from 1605 until 1901. The church was probably destroyed and was again rebuilt in 1590. The first stone church was built in 1600 and destroyed during the 1743 earthquake. A bigger church --- the present Basilica of San Miguel Arkanghel --- was immediately constructed in 1744. It was further enlarged in 1856. Improvements to the roof were made in 1894. During World War II, the adjacent convent that was being used as a Japanese garrison was damaged by American bombs. Despite the damages, the church remained largely intact. The church is said to be one of the most beautiful in the Philippines and features seven neo-classical altars. Tayabas also hosts the Bridge of Malagonlong --- one of the few remaining colonial stone bridges that was built from 1840 to 1850 under the supervision of Fr. Antonio Mateos (OFM). The National Commission on Culture and Arts had declared the church as a national heritage site.

Right after Tayabas is Lucena City where Pancit Lucban is transformed into Pancit Habhab, wrapped in banana leaves, sprinkled with vinegar, and eaten minus spoon and fork. Lucena was established as an independent parish in 1881. Its church of San Fernando was built from 1882 until 1884. It was razed by fire in 1887 and was immediately rebuilt. Sometime ago, Uncle Manoling was walking one of Lucena’s busy streets when he was attacked and stabbed many times. Until today, the motive behind his murder is still unknown. Before that incident, Uncle Manoling lived in Sta. Ana where Abet met him.



Eight kilometers from Lucena City is the sleepy town of Pagbilao. Its ecclesiastical history started with a church of light materials that was probably built during the term of Fr. Cristobal Mortanchez (OFM) in 1688. The church, dedicated to Santa Catalina de Alejandria, was relocated to its present site in 1730 where another structure was probably built under the supervision of Fr. Francisco Xavier de Toledo (OFM). Fr. Victorino Peralija (OFM) initiated building a stone church in 1845 that was finished in 1877 under the supervision of Fr. Eugenio Gomez (OFM). This was destroyed during the war for the liberation of the Philippines in 1945 and was reconstructed under the supervision of Fr. Vicente Urlanda in 1954. Only the bell tower remained of the original structure.



Gumaca is the last town in Quezon before the Bicol Region with an intact colonial church that is acknowledged as the biggest and oldest church in the province. Its story started with the first church that was built in 1582, and its relocation to the island of Alabat in 1638 then to its present site after being razed by Dutch invaders in 1665. The construction of the present church of San Diego de Alcala was started in 1690 and completed in 1747 under the supervisions of Fr. Francisco de las Llagas (OFM) and Gobernadorcillo Diego Martinez Polintan. Fr. Francisco Corto (OFM) had it renovated and improved in 1866. Gumaca is the hometown of my boss, former Sen. Wigberto “Ka Bobby” Tanada, who’s definition of a great snack is a delicious plate of Pancit Canton.

IN HIS FATHER'S SHOES

Meet Balong --- 4 years old and 28 kilos last April 28. He’s got 2 names. The first one means “fight for right” and the second one in honor of my favorite poet. He like riding in Tatay’s motorbike. One day, he will be like his Tatay (and his favorite ninong).

PHOTOS: Juan Pablo L. Ciencia in his father’s shoes (top) and preparing to gobble Nanay’s classic spaghetti (bottom).



Profile: Church of Milaor, Camarines Sur

The Franciscans started building the first church, dedicated to San Jose, in 1725 that was finished in 1735. It was destroyed by fire in 1740 and replaced by the present church. The bell tower was added in 1840.