Thursday, November 02, 2006

WAT-ching THAILAND 1

My first trip outside the Philippines is to Thailand where I attended a training program on family planning advocacy at the Asian Center from November 25 until December 14 of 2002. I was part of a group that included our company’s fabled “Packard Boys”. We stayed at the Somerset Hotel along Bangkok’s Sukhumvit area and on our first night, Oyet came and treated me to dinner in Simlon Road then to a hurried night tour of the infamous Patpong area, the Flower Market, and Chinatown.

During this time, I have not yet transformed into a churchopile but it seems that places of deity worship have a special link to me because I am always drawn to churches, temples and shrines. Perhaps it was the imprint of these churches near the houses we stayed and the schools we went, or the blood of the fraile in Miguel Tomas’ hands, or Amang Lakay’s Babaylan and his conversion as a Sabadista, or the miracles of my childhood.

Buddhism is Thailand’s religion and the shrines and wats (i.e. temples) that dotted its landscape enthralled me with their beauty and mystique. From there on, I always made it a point to bow and do my wai every time I passed one although I did not really understand then the symbol and significance of such act. In Bangkok, I was able to visit the holiest Buddhist temple in Thailand --- Wat Phra Keo or more popularly known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha that was built by King Rama I in 1782 when he established Ratanakosin as his kingdom’s capital.



The Emerald Buddha housed inside Wat Phra Keo was actually carved from a large piece of jade discovered in 1434 inside a chedi that was shattered open by lightning. Its green cover was discovered later after the image’s stucco covering was removed. It was moved several times to Chiang Mai but somehow, the image always ended up in Lampang (shades of Badoc and Sinait). It was not until 1468 that the image finally relented to be installed in Chiang Mai. In 1552, the image was brought to Luang Prabang in Laos by King Chaichetta who was Chiang Mai’s Lao-born ruler. When the Lao capital was moved to Vientiane in 1564, the image also went there to protect it from the invading Burmese army. King Rama I brought it back to Thailand after he captured Vientiane in 1778, and had it installed at the Wat Phra Keo in 1784. Since then, the temple underwent several restorations: in 1831 by King Rama III, in 1856 by King Rama IV, in 1903 by King Rama V after it was damaged by a fire, in 1932 by King Rama VII, and most recently in 1982 by King Rama IX who is more popularly known as King Bhumibol.


Another major Buddhist temple near Wat Phra Keo is Wat Pho that was once the Wat Phodaram of the Ayudha period. It was restored by King Rama I in 1788 and houses what is said to be the biggest and most beautiful Reclining Buddha image in Thailand. The temple is regarded as the university where the traditional Thai massage originated and is still being taught. It underwent restoration during the reigns of King Rama III and King Rama IX.



Our group also spent a week in Chiang Mai where I was able to visit the Thai Buddhists’ second holiest site of Wat Doi Suthep perched high on a mountain. The temple can be reached through a stair of perhaps a thousands steps or an elevator for the physically challenged. There, I had my fortune stick, paid my respects at the main Buddha image where a monk tied a string on my wrist for good luck, rang the conical bells for my wishes to come true, and kissed the clouds of Chiang Mai.



During one field visit, I also dropped by Wat Suan Dok where members of Chiang Mai’s royal family are interred. There is a Buddhist monastery nearby with boy monks. My soul flowed in the hypnotic rhythms of their Buddhist chants, and I never felt so serene in my life.


Aside from churches, noodles maintain a special affinity with me. I had plenty of these in Thailand --- almost everyday --- and my co-trainees teased me if I don’t ever get tired of it. I forget the many Thai noodle dishes that I gorged on mainly because the names are really quite difficult to pronounce and remember, and because I don’t yet have plans of blogging about them later.

PHOTOS (from top to bottom):
1) Bangkok’s Wat Phra Keo
2) Postcard of Wat Phra Keo’s Emerald Buddha
3) Bankok’s Wat Pho
4) Postcard of Wat Pho’s Reclining Buddha
5) Chiang Mai’s Wat Doi Suthep
6) Chiang Mai’s Wat Suan Dok

1 comment:

Welcome Home! said...

A Thai here. After reading some blogs/news I begin to get the idea. Anyway I understand that not all of you guys are like that.

It makes me smile when I read "... I always made it a point to bow and do my wai every time I passed one although I did not really understand then the symbol and significance of such act..." I do the same to Christian Church or Muslim mosque. At least I hve to bow for them. They are not my religion, but I respect theirs. Beside, although a Buddhist, I grew up in a protestant school and I've learn a lot from Bible (the book's still on my bookself, along with Tripitaka or Buddhism bible and Quran. Who said that you have to study only your faith? That makes no sense, at aleast for me.

I remember my Indonesian friend's comment who, like most of Indonesian, is a Muslim. He commented on the news about the incident in which radical Muslims in Acheh, Indonesia, burned down a Christian church 2-3 years ago. My friend was really angry. He said "When the Tsunami 2004 happened, everybody rushed to help you. Everybody from every religions. And they did that without thinking or caring if you or any victims are Muslim, Buddhist, or Chritian."

He is right.

You had been to Chiang Mai. That's my hometown. It's long since you'd been here. Don't know if you ever come back. If not, please take my comment as an intation for you and your family.

A little info very few outside TH know. There is a yearly tradition for Chiang Mai University students esp. freshmen which was practiced since it was established in 1964. On any specific day, students will walk 14 kms (including the path in the campus) up the road to Doi Suthep to pay respect for the temple up there. There's only one rule: leave no man behind. If you friend is tired, you have to help. If your friend is disabled person, you have to push his/her wheel shair. If you friend cannot walk, you have to carry him/her.

The ceremony gain more and more attention countywide each year. Below are some clips/news from the past 2 years trekking. Also a blog by a tourist.

http://wander-lush.org/chiang-mai-university-doi-suthep-temple-thailand/

https://www.facebook.com/teammorchor/videos/481998295506680/

https://youtu.be/tAeuN8t7tP4

https://youtu.be/EKoYxSDQKdc (For this vid you can hit Cc for subtitle)

https://www.bangkokpost.com/learning/advanced/1084301/shorty-the-dog-leads-chiang-mai-university-up-doi-suthep

If you want to joy, you can do as an onlooker. Problem is that they usually announce only 1 months before the trekking, which usually be on the second week of September.

TH is not different from every places. We are just a small country which have good and bad things, also good and bad people. Hope you see the first ones wherever you go. But please don't expect much from us. You know the level of disappointment depends on the level of expectation.

Sorry for any typos. I always do them. Be our guest again any time. You are always welcome.