Monday, June 17, 2019

SOI RAMBUTRRI

Soi Rambutrri is 6.6 kilometers to the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel and a professional photographer who took really good photos of me during the "AICHR Inter-regional Dialogue on Best Practice on Business and Human Rights" [which is the case for my refusal to have my photos taken by an "amateur"], 2 kilometers to the UNESCAP's interesting sessions on "the consequences of non-compliace" and "the future of work [and migration]" in the "Responsible Business and Human Rights Forum", 6.4 kilometers to The Peninsula Bangkok's well-stocked bar for the Philippine Embassy's Independence Day reception dinner, and the exact address of the Ibis Styles Bangkok Khaosan Vientai where we stayed for almost a week and workshopped for a day.   




Soi Rambutrri is the "daughter of Rama" and the less-famous sister of the infamous Khao San Road which has transformed into a slutty strip of an all night unbriddled partying and drunkenness mainly because Richard [aka Leonardo DiCaprio] stayed in one of the backpacker hostels before his curious adventure to "The Beach". 

It is also the street I gazed into every morning in a futile search for an insiration that will help me endure the hotel's permanent and boring breakfast fare... 


...the street where every night, we navigate a jungle of food stalls, restobars that overflow into the pavement, and all sorts of humans...     


...and the street which extends 400 meters into the Michellin-starred and sedate Patonggo Cafe for cheap but heavenly soups, or 200 meters to the riot and madness of Khao San Road on the other side. 


Soi Rambutrri is 3.9 kilometers to Yaowarat [Chinatown] and the 100-year old Khao Tom Jay Suay's  heirloom moo daeng tod [fried roasted pork barbecue] and kiam buay moo sup [ground pork balls soup with Chinese plum] that patrons enjoy al fresco at stainless metal-topped tables and plastic chairs right on the street....


...the braised pork knuckles of Kha Moo Siri Rama which is the Thai version of the Filipino's patatim that I can confidently say is several notches better, served and consumed in the same stainless metal-topped tables and plastic chairs... 


...and finally, the long line at Nai Ek Roll Noodles for its "must have" crispy pork" that we consumed as quickly as we took our place in the ever-present stainless metal-topped tables and plastic chairs, before a quick tour of the sights and smells of Yaowarat at eight in the evening.



I had my first liquid fire at "I Love Thai Food" on Soi Rambutrri's southeastern end and my last one for the week supposedly at "Bombay Blues" on the northwestern end before being lured to the ambiance, the plastic chairs and steel drum tables at "Madam Musur's", the "Yes Bar" and the "VW Cocktail Bar" right at the epicenter of Soi Rambutrri.  

Monday, June 10, 2019

FIVE DAYS

Monday morning melting though the Sierra Madre 
foothills breaking a smoky sky's horizon
18 flowers, 18 treasures, 18 blue bills
moss growing in a bottle

a lonely hill on Tuesday, flooded fields on Thursday, cows grazing on Friday   



Wednesday's fast shattered loud with beer bottles
dead man blessed with salt, soil and brandy
Hiram Abiff revived by a sip of whiskey

Monday, June 03, 2019

THE GHOSTS OF BINONDO

Between the Most Worshiful Grand Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons of the Philippines (established 1912) and the Scottish Rite Freemasonry Temple (established 1910) ) is 538 years of history condensed in a 950-meter stretch of sidewalk vendors, jeepney terminals and a horde of pedestrians that have no idea about what is immortalized in a marker for the Asociacion Feminista Filipina (established 1905), the story behind the National Cathedral of the Iglesia Filipina Independiente (established 1902), the aspiration of the Philippine Women's University (established 1928), and that Pedro Gil aside from being an LRT Station is in fact a reknowned Filipino legislator while [Francisco] Carriedo, the gateway to Quiapo and Dong Camera Repair Shop, is a galleon ship captain.


Carriedo of course is also an entry point to the Binondo-Sta. Cruz area where 6 of Manila's 12 boldest restaurants are still operating including Los Ambos Mundos (established 1888) that I first heard from a waiter of the New Toho Food Center (established 1866) and where Kuya Edong actually took me to lunch once upon a time in Recto.

I was tempted to try its famous Ambos Paella from what I presume is their Comida Mestiza but it was too much for one person so I settled for a set meal of fried rice, lomien, lumpiang shanghai and chop suey which is the probable representation of its Comida China, a late lunch worthy of the long walk from the Dong Camera Repair Shop in Quiapo, and a fitting entree to a late dinner of steamed Kingfish and liquid rice at the more recent Mei Sum Tea House along Ongpin.    


Binondo for me is a striptease that bares a bit of its soul in every visit and this time, it finally relented to see for myself the crumbling shell of a panciteria where rebellious students met in Chapter 25 of the El Filibusterismo: 
"Idinaos ang piging ng mga estudyante sa Panciteria Macanista de Buen Gusto. Labing–apat sila kasama si Basilio....
Iniaalay nila ang Pansit lanlang kay Don Custodio. Ang mga buto buto naman ng sopas ay para sa panukala ni Don Custodio sapagkat kahit mga buto lang ay kayang gumawa ni Don Custodio ng ibang bagay. Ang Lumpia naman ay para kay Padre Irene tinatawag din nila itong lumpiang intsik. Ang hipon at tortang alimasag ay para sa kura tinatawag nila itong tortang alimango. Ang pansit gisado ay para sa bayan at sa pamahalaan dahil ginigisa raw ang pamahalaan ng sariling bansa..."

Some 240 meters away is an old neglected house in Urbiztondo where a historical marker said Gen. Antonio Luna was born in 1866 while 350 meters farther in Elcano corner Lavezares is what might be the oldest extant house in Binondo (circa late 1700s or early 1800s) which is 230 meters to Elcano corner Recto where the Katipunan was  founded in 1892. 

And then a breakfast of pork asado lechon, kiampong fried rice and egg adobo at Chuan Kee (established 1940) which claims to Binondo's oldest turo-turo.     



I could have chased all the ghosts of Binondo in one day if I had a bike but then, Ariel Guieb Tanguilig prefer the rugged biking trails of Nueva Ecija where we finally stepped down from our DD duties after a gluttonous carnivore lunch at Yakimix.